Lago di Garda (Italy)

Before diving into Lago di Garda itself, it makes sense to explain how we ended up there.

Lisa is German and, when she was younger, used to spend part of her summer holidays at Lago di Garda. Since we were already traveling through Italy heading toward Venice from Milan, we were going to pass near the lake, so we decided to stop and spend a few days there to bring back some of those good memories she had from those holidays.

Eating ice cream at Lake Garda

Lago di Garda is in northern Italy, tucked between three regions: Lombardia (to the west), Veneto (to the east), and Trentino-Alto Adige (to the north). It’s about halfway between Milan and Venice, which makes it easy to reach, even if you're traveling by train, car, or campervan. The lake stretches around 50 km in length and has over 300 km of shoreline, with towns and landscapes that change quite a bit from one end to the other.

Historically, the Lago di Garda area has deep roots. Back in Roman times, it was already a summer getaway for the elite. Sirmione, for example, has ruins of a grand Roman villa known as the Grotte di Catullo. Over the centuries, the lake was contested by different powers: Romans, Lombards, Venetians, Austrians… all of that left its mark on the architecture, culture, and even the food.

To be honest, just based on what I felt, I think there are more foreigners than Italians along the lake and in the town of Sirmione. And to me, that makes the place lose some of its authenticity. There are loads of campsites right by the lake, followed by restaurants, boat rentals, and even private swimming pools built into the lake itself (which felt a bit strange).

The town of Sirmione is located at the southern tip of Lago di Garda. You can’t drive into the historic part (there are many parking lots before you reach the entrance). The town sits within the walls of a castle that’s basically the postcard image of Sirmione but once you're inside the walls, it’s just shops, restaurants, gelato spots, pizzerias… and we were left wondering about the actual history of the place. In my opinion, there should be something cultural that expresses the identity of the town, but this is just one example of how excessive tourism can take away the soul of a place.

Scaliger Castle in Sirmione

Most of the tourists are German and at times it really felt like we were in Germany. I say this with no offense at all. Visiting places is great, but this felt more like a German takeover of Italy. Even Lisa said she didn’t feel completely comfortable seeing that reality.

It’s a luxury tourism destination, with lots of hotels, massive holiday homes, and the streets and towns around are all perfectly maintained and decorated.

Lago di Garda "beach"

Now, about Lago di Garda, which is what really matters, it’s absolutely beautiful. Clean waters, and if you move away from the shore a bit, you can see loads of fish.

The “beaches” are stony, which makes walking a little tricky (but nothing dramatic). As I mentioned, the lake is huge, so it’s not hard to find a quiet spot to chill. Naturally, the closer you are to the towns, the more crowded it gets.

I totally recommend stopping by and enjoying the lake, just keep in mind that it’s in a super touristy area. If you're traveling by campervan, stop by a supermarket first to stock up on food, since prices are a bit higher near the lake, and then enjoy your time by the water.

We spent the night [here] and parked (2.5€/h) [here] to visit Sirmione.

As always, if you’ve got questions or just feel like exchanging ideas, feel free to send me a message.

Don´t forget:

If you go there,

go barefoot.

Carlos